![]() ![]() When it is -20C outside, it starts to get cold inside with low engine temps like that. At highway speeds engine temp is around 82C and when I was driving back from Vancouver in the mountain passes where there are long down hills and I wasn't working the engine it would drop down to about 78C. The only issue I am having is engine heat - I think my thermostat is weak / stuck. Changing the fueling:boost ratio at highway speeds got me from 5.5L per 100 110km/h to sub 5.0L - perfect! Performance is still stellar - driving in forth gear on the wet streets of Vancouver it is possible to spin the tires if you floor it when the light goes amber! Passing acceleration on the highway if almost frighening - before you know it 160km/h is there and six cars are behind you! Dynamic idle is when the engine is cold the engine RPMs are higher to help with warming up the engine - that's great if for want to idle the car to warm it up, but if you want to start driving the car the idle is still high, which leads to some not so fun parking lot driving. I had the software updated again at Malone Tuning (Mark is outstanding!) to get rid of the dynamic idle and to adjust the fueling:boost ratio at normal highway speeds. What am I missing here? It is simple to make, inexpensive to purchase and besides looking like drain pipe what are the down sides? The hose clamp won't slide over the screw and the screw is in the plastic and won't move and so far everything now is holding up well. So the solution to this was to use three small screws with low profile round heads spaced out at 120 degrees at the end of the pipe to hold the flange in place. Turns out these are made of a different plastic and it is the glue that is failing as the flange stays in the rubber hose. What I have been using is the thin "test cap" with the end of the test cap cut off to create a flange that the hose can slide over as the regular flange is too fat. During a few episodes of 1.5 bar of boost the hose popped off the end. So far, 6 weeks into driving they have held out great - EXPECT - where I installed the flanges for the rubber pipe. I figured it was rated for in-excess of 100 PSI and people pour boiling hot water down their drain all the time it should work out just fine. Suggestions? What am I missing? I really don't want to fork out a grand for a turbo unless I have to, so I want to exhaust all other items at this point before doing that.Īs you have seen in this "Projekt Ghetto" of mine, I am using ABS drain pipe for the cold side of my intercooler system. There is an ever slight amount of smoke on acceleration with both the stock and the updated software and it feels right in the sub 2000 RPM range. ![]() Even driving it and bypassing the N75 valve and giving it 100% vacuum results in no boost. to me, I have done everything "right" - yet I have no boost. The only errors I have is actual issues of no K29 and K83 connected - that's it. Accelerator shows 0 to 100% and has no errors. ABS drain pipe works really well! The VSS is working, brake and clutch pedals are connected and working as they should. I have pressurized the intake system from the turbo to the manifold (cleaned of EGR junk as is the head too before the swap) and it will hold 50 PSI and leak down less than a couple of PSI so all that is good. I used my mighty vac to make it so at around 4" of Hg the arm starts to move and at exactly 18" of Hg it stops moving - no binding at all - so I figure all is good, but I am not a turbo expert! When the engine idles you can apply vacuum to it and it moves as I have seen other turbos move in the past and I can hear the exhaust note change at the some time. When reassembling the hot side and with all the 10mm head bolts are loose you can rotate the cartridge in the housing a few degrees - so I centered it between the two natural stopping points and tightened it up. I tightened up that screw again and reassembled the turbo. There was an issue with the turbo before I installed it, the vanes wouldn't move - turned out to be one of the torx screws inside the turbo backed out and prevented the vanes from moving. The engine starts and runs fine and the car drives fine too - except for the boost. in fact a slight vacuum (0850mbar down from 0980mbar) on full acceleration! This is according to VCDS and a boost gauge shows the same thing. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |